Natural History The name "Red-Tail Boa" has commonly been used by pet stores and snake aficionados to distract the public's
attention from the fact that their proper name is boa constrictor. Many people who do not know much about snakes are fearful
of all "constrictors," especially large constrictors; Red-Tail Boa sounds much less threatening. In fact, not all boa constrictors
are red-tailed. While many boas on the market are true red-tailed Boa constrictor constrictor imported from Brazil,
with a few coming from very limited areas in Columbia, the Amazon, Guyana, and Surinam, most are actually B. c. imperator
from Columbia, with a few coming in from Mexico, Hogg Island and countries throughout Central America. There are seven other
subspecies of B. constrictor from South America which can sometimes be found in the retail and private pet trade. All
of the Boa ssp. are listed as threatened on Appendix II of the Convention on the International Trade in Endangered
Species. the Argentine Boa (B. c. occidentalis) is on Appendix I--the endangered listing. Appendix II animals can be
exported and imported with the proper permits, and can legally be sold through the pet trade; Appendix I animals require special
permits to buy, sell, trade and own.
Ranging from the high cloud forests to the dry low lands, these beautifully
marked snakes are only moderately arboreal. Frequently found near human habitation (due to the quantity of rodents found near
human habitats), Boas are primarily nocturnal or crepuscular (active at dawn and dusk). In the extreme northern and southern
portions of their range, the Boas will often go through several weeks of inactivity to get through the periods of extreme
cold or drought, a behavior that may be observed in captivity as the weather changes throughout the year. Those snakes living
in the consistently high humid temperatures of the rain forest areas will remain active throughout the year.
Boas devour a variety of prey in the wild - amphibians, lizards, other snakes,
birds and mammals. In captivity, they should be fed pre-killed mice, rats and, when adults, rabbits and chickens. You can
buy the rodents and rabbits at pet stores; these animals have been specially raised and are clean, healthy and well-nourished.
Chickens can be purchased at hatcheries; do not feed raw chicken pieces purchased at the grocery store - up to 80% of it may
be infected with Salmonella bacteria. Chickens from hatcheries should also be considered suspect due to the overcrowded conditions
typical of most hatcheries; check the hatchery out first before you buy. Under no circumstances should you feed your snakes
wild-caught prey items. Wild rodents and other animals carry a variety of parasites and bacteria for which your snake has
no immunity. If you cannot afford to buy the proper food, you should not buy the snake.
That cute little 2 ounce, 14-22" hatchling laying cupped in the palm of
your hand will increase its size by up to 300% in its first year, reaching 5-6 feet during that time. The following year will
add another 3-4 feet to its length, as well as several pounds. After the second year, the growth rate slows down significantly,
but snakes do continue to grow, however slightly, during their entire lives. The live bearing females will give birth to 10-60
young (depending upon the subspecies) after a gestational period of 4-10 months (depending upon temperature and several other
factors). Unlike most big snakes, many female Boas do not bear young each year.
GETTING STARTED Selecting
Your Boa Constrictor Choose an animal that has clear firm skin,
rounded body shape, clean vent, clear eyes, and who actively flicks its tongue around when handled. When held, the snake should
grip you gently but firmly when moving around. It should be alert to its surroundings. All young snakes are food for other,
larger snakes, birds, lizards and mammalian predators so your hatchling may be a bit nervous at first but should settle down
quickly. Like the pythons, Boas have anal spurs. These single claws appearing on either side of the vent are the vestigial
remains of the hind legs snakes lost during their evolution from lizard to snake millions of years ago. Males have longer
spurs than do the females. There is little difference in temperament between the two sexes. Imported Colombian B. c. imperator
and B. c. constrictor are the nicest, least aggressive of all the Boas. The other true red-tails tend to be testy and aggressive.
Captive-bred Boas of all subspecies tend to be more docile than their wild-caught counterparts.
Enclosure Select an enclosure especially designed for housing snakes,
such as those with the combination fixed screen/hinged glass top. All snakes are escape artists; Boas are especially powerful
and can easily break out of a tank sealed with a board and a couple of bricks. A good starter tank for a hatchling is a 20
gallon tank. After the first couple of years, you will have to build your own enclosure out of wood and glass or Plexiglas
or purchase a tank made by producers of large reptile enclosures. Be prepared - big snakes need lots of room, not the least
of which is an enclosure big enough for you to get in and clean it out!
Suitable substrate Use paper towels at first. These are easily and quickly removed and replaced when soiled and, with an import, will
allow you to better monitor for the presence of mites and the condition of the feces. Once the animal is established, you
can use more decorative ground cover such as commercially prepared shredded cypress or fir bark. Pine, cedar and aspen shavings
should not be used as they can become lodged in the mouth while eating, causing respiratory and other problems. The bark must
be monitored closely and all soiled and wet portions pulled out immediately to prevent bacteria and fungus growths. The utilitarian
approach is to use inexpensive Astroturf. Extra pieces of Astroturf can be kept in reserve and used when the soiled piece
is removed for cleaning and drying (soak in a solution of two tablespoons of household bleach in for each gallon of water;
rinse thoroughly, and dry completely before reuse). Remember: the easier it is to clean, the faster you'll do it!
Hiding Place A
hiding place should be provided for Boas. A half-log (available at pet stores), an empty cardboard box or upside-down opaque
plastic container, both with an access doorway cut into one end, can also be used. The plastic is easily cleaned when necessary;
the box can be tossed out when soiled and replaced with a new one. Many Boas enjoy hanging out on branches; provide clean
branches big enough to support the Boa's weight. If you use a found branch, soak first in the bleach/water solution, then
clean water to thoroughly rinse; place in cage only when completely dry. If you use rocks and bricks to construct a cave,
be sure to affix them firmly in place. Boas are very strong, and can easily topple such a structure when moving about. When
the rocks tumble on the snake, severe injuries may result.
Temperature Gradient The proper temperature range is essential in keeping your snake healthy. The ambient daytime air temperature throughout
the enclosure must be maintained between 82-90 F (28-32 C), with a basking area kept at 90-95 F (32-35 C). At night, the ambient
air temperature may be allowed to drop down no lower than 78-85 F (26-30 C). Special reptile heating pads that are manufactured
to maintain a temperature about 20o higher than the air temperature may be used inside the enclosure. There are
adhesive pads that can be stuck to the underside of a glass enclosure. Heating pads made for people, available at all drug
stores, are also available; these have built-in high-medium-low switches and can be used under a glass enclosure. You can
also use incandescent light bulbs in porcelain and metal reflector hoods to provide the additional heat required for the basking
area, or the new ceramic heating elements which can be put into regular light sockets and radiate heat downward. All lights
must be screened off to prevent the snake from burning itself. All snakes are susceptible to thermal burns. For this same
reason do not use a hot rock. Buy at least two thermometers - one to use in the overall area 1" above the enclosure floor,
and the other 1" above the floor in the basking area. Ideally, you should place a third thermometer at near the upper basking
bench or branch. Don't try to guess the temperature--you will end up with a snake who will be too cold to eat and digest its
food. Once your snake has grown quite large, you may wish to invest in a pig blanket, a large rigid pad for which you can
buy a thermostat to better control the temperature.
No special lighting is needed You may use a full-spectrum light or low wattage incandescent bulb in the enclosure during the day but snake, having
evolved to living underground, have not need for regular full-spectrum/UV lighting. If you do use such a light in the tank,
make sure the snake cannot get into direct contact with the light bulbs, nor burrow itself into the casing of the fluorescent
Feeding your snake to acclimate for a couple of weeks to its new home. Start your hatchling
off with a single pre-killed week to 10-day old "fuzzy" rat. A smaller sized hatchling may require a small mouse. Larger Boas
may be fed larger pre-killed rats. The rule of thumb is that you can feed prey items that are no wider than the widest part
of the snake's body. While Boas will often gladly eat prey that is actually too large for it, they will generally regurgitate
the prey item one or more days later. Not a pretty sight. If you have not had any experience force feeding a snake, you may
not want to try it yourself until you have seen someone do it. Force feeding should be an action of last resort, as it is
very stressful for the snake--and the owner! It is very easy to overfeed captive snakes, especially the boas and pythons,
as they do not get enough opportunity to exercise and burn calories in captivity as they do in the wild. Be judicious--your
snake will get big and impressive soon enough. Feed it enough to keep it healthy, not obese.
Provide fresh water Keep a bowl of fresh water available at all times. Your snake will both drink and soak, and may defecate, in it. Check
it often and change it as needed. A warm bath in your bathtub will also be welcomed just before your Boa is ready to shed.
Veterinary Care Routine veterinary screening for newly acquired snakes is essential. Many of the parasites infesting Boas
and other reptiles can be transmitted to humans and other reptiles. Left untreated, such infestations can ultimately kill
your snake. When your snake first defecates, collect the feces in a clean plastic bag, seal it, label it with the date, your
name and phone number and the snake's name, and take it and your snake to a vet who is experienced with reptiles. Ask that
it be tested for worms and protozoans, which are two different tests. If either test is positive, your Boa will be given medication
given that you can repeat later at home.
Handling your new snake After giving your Boa a couple of days to settle in, begin picking it up and handling it gently. It may move from you,
and may threaten you by doing tail lashings and hissing. Be gentle but persistent. Daily contact will begin to establish a
level of trust and confidence between you and your snake. When it is comfortable with you, you can begin taking it around
the house. Don't get over-confident! Given a chance and close proximity to seat cushions, your Boa will make a run (well,
a slither) for it, easing down between the cushions and from there, to points possibly unknown. Always be gentle, and try
to avoid sudden movements. If the snake wraps around your arm or neck, you can unwind it by gently grasping it by the tail
and unwrapping it from around you. If you start at the head, you will find that your snake is stronger than you are, or at
least, more tenacious.
things you should have on hand for general maintenance and first aid include: Nolvasan (Chlorhexidine diacetate) for cleaning
enclosures and disinfecting food and water bowls, litter boxes, tubs and sinks etc. Betadine (povidone/iodine) for cleansing
scratches and wounds. Set aside a food storage bowl, feeding and water bowls, soaking bowl or tub, even sponges, to be used
only for your Boa